Colour, chaos & sisterhood: celebrating Holi as a single female traveller

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Colour, chaos & sisterhood: celebrating Holi as a single female traveller

“You’ll get groped.”

That was the first thing people said when I told them I was going to Holi in India as a single woman — not “That sounds amazing!” or “You’ll have so much fun,” just a flat warning wrapped in concern or disbelief.

I understood where the fear came from. Holi is both famous and infamous for its colour and chaos — and for the risks it can pose, especially to women travellers.

But I wasn’t deterred. With the right mindset and precautions, I knew the festival of colours could become one of the most unforgettable experiences of my life.

Camera IconCelebrating Holi. Colour everywhere. Credit: Sarah StegerJOY IN THE CHAOS

A cloud of bright powder explodes above us, raining down and immediately staining our hair, skin and clothes.

A crush of limbs closes in, moving to the unsteady rhythm of leather drums echoing through the temple. I look up to see an ocean of raised arms, the crowd heaving like one giant organism.

An elderly woman shuffles over, smiling as she cups my face and smears fluoro pink powder across my cheeks. It’s not the first time I’ve had this encounter in the last 15 minutes — and it won’t be the last.

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My friend Sana and I had arrived at Thikana Mandir Sri Govinddevji in the heart of Jaipur at 6am, hoping to catch the start of Holi. We joined the current of people flowing through the pink city at dawn, but by the time we reached the temple recommended by our hotel, it was clear the celebrations were already in full swing.

A blur of faces sharpened into a jubilant swarm, dancing and laughing in unison. It was a living mosaic — children twirling, mothers clutching babies, elderly men with glasses caked in colour. The crowd surged like a tidal wave, hypnotic and wild.

Eventually, Sana and I worked up the courage to enter the fray.

The crush of bodies was overwhelming — shoulder to shoulder, energy unstoppable and wild. For a moment, claustrophobia rushed in. But then it evaporated.

Strangers grinned in welcome. Kids grabbed my hands and spun me in dizzy circles. A group of boys pulled me into a dance circle, showing me how to move with the music. My feet joined thousands of others, pounding like thunder on the pavement.

I remember thinking: I’ve never felt so alive — or so connected to complete strangers.

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Despite the joy, Holi isn’t all rainbows. Amid the euphoria, things can quickly escalate — especially for women.

A little boy hurled powder into my face from less than a metre away, leaving me coughing and wiping technicoloured tears from my eyes. And my guard never fully went down — as it shouldn’t. As a woman travelling solo, complete surrender isn’t an option.

But that’s okay. Joy doesn’t have to mean complete abandon.

And Sana and I quickly found solace in the company of other women.

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When two men refused to take “no” for an answer while asking for a selfie, a young mother noticed and gently guided us away. Later, when a teenager with a water gun chased us, a group of girls we’d danced with earlier yelled at him to stop and pulled us back into their circle.

These small acts of solidarity empowered me. I began reading the room — sensing when a moment was about to tip from fun to unsafe.

I learned to take control in an environment that, by all accounts, was out of control.

If unwanted hands lingered too long, I ducked away.

When asked for photos, I stood my ground.

And if someone grabbed me — by the hand, shoulder, or anywhere else — I pulled away without hesitation.

There was power in knowing we weren’t alone, even though we knew no one.

That’s sisterhood. It stretches across countries, cultures, and languages.

STAYING SAFE

Anyone travelling to India for Holi has heard the stories: crowds drunk on more than life, vandalism, harassment.

As a solo female traveller, I don’t go anywhere without doing my research — and this trip was no different. I knew it would be safer with someone I trusted, and luckily, convincing Sana was easy.

We chose Jaipur after reading good reviews from fellow travellers, and booked a modest but well-rated hotel. Our outfit choices were intentional — loose-fitting clothes, cross-body bags, headscarves on standby. We agreed on a meeting point in case we got separated, and even set a “safe word” to signal if either of us wanted to leave. No jokes. No debate.

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Having each other’s backs made a huge difference — and that sense of protection only grew once we arrived at the temple, where women looked out for one another.

The best decision we made, though, was where to celebrate. We were determined to have an authentic experience — not one of the watered-down government events tailored for tourists. But we were also cautious of the rowdy street parties that could get dangerous.

That’s when Danesh, our hotel manager, stepped in. A Jaipur local, he strongly urged us to go to the temple. He promised it would be just as real, but far safer.

He was right. That advice made all the difference.

PACK THOSE BAGS

Celebrating Holi was one of the greatest experiences of my life — one I’ll never forget. Truly. I think I still have blue powder in my ears.

Was I nervous? Of course. But fear has never stopped me.

It just goes on the packing list.

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#Colour #chaos #sisterhood #celebrating #Holi #single #female #traveller

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