Porcini Ragù, Shrimp and Grits, Jambon Beurre and Pecan Pie

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Porcini Ragù, Shrimp and Grits, Jambon Beurre and Pecan Pie

Good morning. Lent began on Wednesday, the start of a commemoration of the 40 days Jesus spent in the Judean Desert, fasting and avoiding the temptations of Satan. It’s a ******* of prayer, abstention and almsgiving for many Christians, solemn preparation for the miracle of Easter. And, for many, it means avoiding meat on Fridays.

For them, then, though really for anyone with a taste for the delicious (it wouldn’t be a bad call for an iftar meal if you’re observing Ramadan, or for Shabbat dinner): this lovely

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that Ligaya Mishan adapted from a recipe the cookbook writer

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ate as a child growing up in Tuscany.

It comes together far more quickly than a ragù you’d make with ground pork or beef, with dried porcinis plumped in hot water, which are then chopped and fried with tomato paste, garlic, crushed red pepper and parsley. Hit that with a lot of freshly ground ****** pepper, some of the water you used for the mushrooms, a little cream and a shower of Parmesan. Toss with tagliatelle and finish with olive oil and a little more cheese. Then give thanks, for this is a fantastic meal.

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So, too, is a breakfast of Saturday pancakes, and in particular these

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that Mark Bittman brought to The Times years ago, with whipped egg whites in the batter and ricotta to boot. Those under maple syrup, with a scattering of coined bananas, are a weekend joy, just the breakfast to consume before an adventure outside the house, experiencing the world.

For New Yorkers, maybe that’s a drive up the Hudson to hike

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. For others, it’s a Nordic ski around a reservoir, or a walk on salt flats or a bicycle ride down a road near the Pacific. (For me, this weekend, I’m hoping it’s a run out through

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in the Florida Keys, in search of tarpon and permit.) You’ll make your own call, but let’s all of us eat

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for lunch.

And then, for dinner, Julia Reed’s impeccable recipe for

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, adapted from one she discovered in landlocked Sewanee, Tenn. Follow it with

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if you have the time to bake one, or with

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if you don’t.

Keep it up with the Big Breakfasts on Sunday. You can eat muesli all week. Say, perhaps, some

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alongside a few slices of

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and a big glass of

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?

Have some leftover ragù for lunch and then fight off the Sunday scaries with a

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for dinner.

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provides.

And please write for help, should you run into problems with your account: *****@*****.tld. (You do have an account, yes? If you don’t, would you consider subscribing today?) Or you can write to me, if you want to cheer or complain: *****@*****.tld. I can’t respond to every letter. There’s a lot of mail. But I do read each one I get.

Now, it’s nothing to do with barley or veal, but I liked Lizzy Caplan in “

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” on

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, starring Robert De Niro.

Likewise, Helen Mirren in the insane second episode of the insane second season of Taylor Sheridan’s “1923” on Paramount+, “

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.”

A one-two punch from The New York Times Book Review sent me crashing into the bookstore the other day: Elisabeth Egan’s silky profile of the novelist Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie on the cusp of releasing “

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,” her first novel in a dozen years, followed by Alexandra Jacobs’s ace review of the book.

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#Porcini #Ragù #Shrimp #Grits #Jambon #Beurre #Pecan #Pie

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