East Tzoumerka: A Green Sanctuary in the Pindos Mountains

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East Tzoumerka: A Green Sanctuary in the Pindos Mountains

As I wander through the rugged mountains of Greece, my thoughts drift to the growing debate over overtourism and its often detrimental effects, a conversation that has gained momentum in recent years. It strikes me that the less “developed” a destination is—untouched by the heavy hand of mass tourism—the more genuine its hospitality and the richer the experiences it offers. East Tzoumerka epitomizes this rare charm. This secluded corner of Greece demands a long, challenging journey, no matter where your adventure begins. Yet, for those in search of tranquility and reflection amidst breathtaking, mountainous vistas, East Tzoumerka extends a warm welcome, promising a retreat into nature’s embrace.

Theodoriana from above – drone shot. Theodoriana from above – drone shot.

Administrative borders here often follow the natural divides carved by mountain ridges and rivers. Within the broader region of East Tzoumerka, you’ll find villages with rich history, natural beauty, and plenty to see, taste, and experience, all within close reach of each other. Villages like Neraida, Lafina, Koryfi (also known as Kapro), Skarpari, and Glistra embody a simplicity and depth rarely found elsewhere. Standing on the western bank of the Acheloos River across from the village of Koryfi, one might wonder why it belongs administratively to Trikala and Kalambaka rather than its more “natural” home in the Athamanika Mountains and the municipality of Central Tzoumerka.

All these villages share one defining feature: the Acheloos River. The continuous flow of Greece’s most significant river creates a unique microclimate that has multiple benefits for the surrounding land and life.

The hanging footbridge over the Acheloos River. The hanging footbridge over the Acheloos River.

The Souda twin waterfalls. The Souda twin waterfalls.

Unique Nature Experiences in East Tzoumerka

In East Tzoumerka, you’ll encounter experiences that bring you closer to nature, such as crossing the Acheloos River via the hanging footbridge west of Glistra (and taking care while doing so). Here, you can immerse yourself in the icy waters of the Acheloos at the natural beach beside the bridge. You’ll also see the massive, controversial Acheloos diversion project from Mesochora to the Glistra hydroelectric station, one of many undertakings that have had an unfortunate impact on the Acheloos ecosystem.

You’ll taste delicious meats in Kapro and savor fresh trout at Petrino. And prepare to be captivated by the twin Souda waterfalls, which are accessible via a nearby trail from Theodoriana. Equally breathtaking are the waterfalls and natural pools along the Marks stream. Here, you’ll find hiking and climbing trails of various difficulty levels, such as the path to Katafidi—the highest peak of Tzoumerka at 2,393 meters—the challenging, scenic ascent to Kryakoura peak (2,150 meters), and the trail along Marks stream, which is currently being extended to include a small Via Ferrata section.

Pinakouli peak at sunrise. Pinakouli peak at sunrise.

The trails around Theodoriana go through a lush, forested landscape with dozens of cool springs, where summer temperatures rarely exceed 25-30°C. The dense forest cover reaches its natural boundary at 1,700-1,800 meters, giving way to an impressive subalpine and alpine terrain. Here, you’ll find grass-filled plateaus like Pano and Kato Kostilata, numerous springs, unique geological formations, and sharp mountain ridges with panoramic views across the Pindos range, the Ambracian Gulf, and the plains of Arta.

The refuge with the mountains of Central Pindos in the background. The refuge with the mountains of Central Pindos in the background.

Accommodation and Warm Hospitality in East Tzoumerka

Though lodging options are few in East Tzoumerka, you’ll find authentic places to stay that add to the whole experience. The Stavros Refuge, located high above Theodoriana and catering mostly to hikers and mountaineers, is a great choice. The view of the surrounding peaks is breathtaking, but after it rains, it becomes truly magical—almost dreamlike. Sunrise and sunset have their own magic, casting the lofty summits of Tzoumerka, Kryakoura, and the distant central Pindos in colors that seem to belong to another world.

Theodoriana (center-bottom) and Kryakoura (the distant mountain) as seen from Stavros Refuge. Theodoriana (center-bottom) and Kryakoura (the distant mountain) as seen from Stavros Refuge.

The management of the refuge recently converted a smaller outbuilding into a charming wooden guesthouse, complete with a loft and a wood-burning stove. Mornings here are unforgettable: a warm coffee on the eastern-facing glass terrace fills you with a sense of peace and belonging. And the hospitality of managers Sakis and Georgia is beyond words—best experienced firsthand, with laughter, song, and local meats expertly slow-cooked over an open *****. Their friendliness extends far beyond their accommodations, as they work tirelessly to keep trails clear and create new paths for visitors to explore.

East Tzoumerka and Theodoriana see fewer visitors than the northern or western regions, making them a hidden gem for anyone looking for a destination that truly values their presence. Time spent here is richly rewarding.

In 2009, Lefteris Tsouris and his colleague Vyron Giannakopoulos founded Geopsis, a company dedicated to mapping and improving the trails of Greece’s mountain regions. Discover all these trails and sights on the Geopsis digital map of Central Pindos: Geopsis Map

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